Why It Works Steaming followed by an ice bath yields easier peeling and neater, less dimpled whites. Mustard, vinegar, and cherry pepper brine give the homemade filling brighter, sharper flavor. Pickled mustard seeds add caviar-like pop and mild, sweet heat. "Did you start those eggs in cold water or boiling water?" I asked as I watched a cook-who-shall-not-be-named, who was trying in vain to cleanly peel the 200 or so hard-boiled eggs we would go through for the extra-mustardy deviled eggs during a typical weekend at Wursthall , the San Mateo, California, beer hall I helped open in March of 2018. At home, it's not so important that your deviled eggs be smooth and divot-free, but at a restaurant with paying customers, it sure is. His answer, along with a sheepish "That's how my old chef told us to do it," confirmed my suspicion. "It's okay," I told him. "Looks like egg salad for family meal today.…