Why It Works Roasting intensifies the strawberry flavor and color while tenderizing firm, under-ripe fruit. Subtle use of aromatics like vanilla and rose water mimics the fragrant depth of ripe summer fruit. Close monitoring in the oven prevents mush, giving you tender berries suspended in bright syrup. Back in 1878, a delegate of the Michigan Pomological Society bemoaned the sad state of strawberries "shoved into market before they are ripe. We know but little about the luscious ripe strawberry." After a hundred and forty years of relentless cultivation, I'd hate to know what he thinks of today's supermarket strawberries, much less those sold in the dead of winter. Still, there are times when bakers have to work with what they've got, even if that's out-of-season fruit. Maybe it's a craving for strawberry shortcake that just won't quit, a special request from someone you love too much to deny, or nostalgia for certain holiday pairings—who can escape strawberries and chocolate on Valentine's Day?…