Straight to the Point The Cumulus Coffee Machine makes cold brew, nitro coffee, and cold espresso with a simple press of the button. The velvety smooth nitro cold brew is what sets this machine apart from others.  There’s a longstanding joke among some gay men that we all drink iced coffee , regardless of the weather. Whether that’s a universal truth or not, I do love cold brew, but I rarely think far enough in advance to make the concentrate . And though I’ve written many of Serious Eats’ coffee gear reviews and often make Japanese-style iced coffee , I was intrigued to discover the Cumulus Cold Brew Coffee Machine, which makes cold brew coffee, cold espresso (perfect for an iced latte), and nitro coffee, all at the press of a button. I decided to test the Cumulus to see if this fancy machine is worth its price tag—and the valuable countertop space it takes up.  The Tests Once filled, the reservoir chills water in about 15 minutes.…