Depending on the batch, lard's flavor can range from distinctly meaty to neutral and all but flavorless. Leaf lard is highly prized and produces the whitest, most neutral-tasting fat, making it ideal for baked goods. It is 100% fat and has a neutral flavor, whereas butter usually contains about 20% water and has a distinctly creamy taste. At the beginning of every month, I make a fresh batch of lard. I swing by my local butcher shop and lug home bags of leaf lard, the ropey-looking section of pork fat that clings to the pig's kidney and loins. In its raw state, leaf lard is tough, opaque, and frankly not that appealing to look at or touch. But render it in a pan over medium-low heat for an hour or in a pot in the oven for a few hours, and it slowly becomes a glossy liquid with a faintly sweet and irresistibly savory aroma. Lard, rendered pig fat, appears in almost all of my favorite foods: My local taqueria uses it to cook their meats, making them extra savory.…