It looks like a salmon crudo: thin slices of fatty yet delicate fish, crunchy vegetables, and a bright, acidic sauce. But no animal was killed to make it. When the cultivated salmon arrives at the table, it looks like something you’d find at any good omakase counter. And that’s the goal—restaurants are currently the singular entry point for encountering what is also known as “lab-grown meat,” a.k.a. chicken, pork, beef, and seafood cultivated from cells. In kitchens around the country, chefs are translating this novelty into dishes that aren’t too challenging to get behind. The bigger hurdle is turning that first bite into lasting demand. Chef Dominique Crenn debuted cell-cultivated chicken in 2023 at Bar Crenn in San Francisco. José Andrés’s China Chilcano in Washington, DC, followed suit, with limited run, reservation-only dinners priced from $70 to $150 per person.…