Photo by Chris Floyd for The New Statesman Everything in the world is about food, apart from restaurants, which are about real estate. That’s what Jeremy King, the Pater Patriae of the London restaurant scene, would have you believe, anyway. Building first, menu second, chef third – it’s the formula for making a success of a place, he tells me. He would know: he might have the best CV in the ecosystem. Just don’t tell Alain Ducasse or Keith McNally. Or any of the other ego-forward characters of the hospitality world, for the matter. King is 6ft 5in at the very least, taller than the rest of them.  In the 1980s he was looking after Princess Diana at Le Caprice, around the back of the Ritz in Green Park, with his business partner Chris Corbin. He is the brains behind the Wolesley just a few doors down, the vaulted bank-cum-restaurant famous for breakfast and the ambient presence of AA Gill.…