By the time we see our first gorilla , I'm ready to sit down on a patch of grass and, honestly, take a rest. After two hours of vigorous hiking, I want to ask the gorillas if they can just hang on a moment so I can catch my breath. The hike began with a bang: up a steep incline, through a non-native eucalyptus woodland , past tea plantations at 6,200 feet above sea level, then down into the dense brush. Once inside Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park, we traipsed along a narrow path lined with mahoganies and strangler figs while skipping over branches and lines of angry red ants. But the gorillas do not wait. Particularly this group of 17, which is extremely active and, because there's another gorilla family nearby, very territorial. As we follow them, clambering up hills and over plants and roots, our guide Ngabirano Onesmus hacks away at branches to make way. Suddenly it's raining gorillas. They're dashing past us and climbing up trees, then awkwardly sliding back down.…