And the adventure's not over yet… A.Russ/Heritage Adventurer It was an uncannily calm day on Macquarie Island, a sliver of oceanic crust located about halfway between New Zealand and Antarctica . Typically, it's pummeled by icy winds and drenching rains. But today, I'm sitting on the black-sand beach under partly cloudy skies, legs outstretched as gentle waves roll ashore. A group of curious royal penguins waddles by, pausing to inspect my muck boots and give me a quick once-over. Sensing another presence, I whip my head around toward the tussocks behind me—lo and behold, two royals have snuck up on me. I pull out my phone to take a selfie. Endemic to Australia's UNESCO-designated Macquarie Island, the royals are a "lifer" for me, a term that birders use when you add a new species to your lifetime bird list.…