When chef Chang-ho Shin was running his two Michelin-starred Joo Ok in Korea, he worked closely with farms, visiting regularly and harvesting ingredients for his daily menus. But when he relocated his restaurant to New York City in 2022, he found that many Korean ingredients were unavailable. Perilla seeds and leaves and a critical group of Korean vegetables used for namul, the cuisine’s seasoned vegetable banchan, were not easy to find. When they were, the quality was inconsistent. Over time, he developed relationships with farmers in the Hudson Valley. Things improved somewhat, but still, Shin longed to have more control over his produce and a closer relationship to the ingredients. “I wanted to start a farm here. But that was not something I could do alone.” Turns out, he didn’t have to.…