Copper cookware has a way of pulling focus. It’s expensive, it’s eye-catching, and its associations with French cuisine and the origins of haute gastronomy make it a talisman of prestige. Revisit some iconic cinematic depictions of kitchens— Babette’s Feast (1987), The Taste of Things (2023), and even Ratatouille (2007) come to mind—and you’ll find copper there, gleaming alluringly among the set dressing. But pans don’t become standard in a restaurant’s kitchen just because they look good (most people would never see them in the back of the house anyway). Copper is an efficient conductor of thermal energy compared to other metals typically used in cookware. Cookware made with copper is thus known for its even heating and responsiveness to changes in temperature, capable of accommodating subtle adjustments for finicky things like sauces and custards . At least, that’s what cookware manufacturers would like you to believe. The reality is that not all copper cookware is as good as it claims to be.…