Everyone warned me about bringing three kids to wine country. They weren’t wrong, exactly. Pull up to Stag’s Leap or Mumm and you’ll find gorgeous scenery, serious sommeliers, and approximately zero reason for a child to be there. I love wine. My kids do not. We needed a plan. The plan turned out to be a medieval castle. Castello di Amorosa sits at the end of a long drive through vineyards in Calistoga, and when it comes into view you genuinely stop breathing for a second. The stones are too old to be in America. The walls are too thick. The whole thing looks like someone lifted a 13th-century Italian fortress out of Tuscany and set it down, inexplicably, in Northern California wine country, surrounded by crimson and burnished bronze grapevines. Which is, more or less, exactly what happened. The man behind it is Dario Sattui (he was born Daryl, which tells you something).…