S pring is arguably the most exciting time for a chef, or cook. The long – really long – winter has come to an end and, as the shadows shorten, the list of ingredients lengthens: peas, broad beans, wild garlic, spring lamb … It is where nature comes into her own, because, as if by design, all of its bounty goes together in the most wonderful, natural and understated way. Lamb shoulder cooked in buttermilk with peas, broad beans and wild garlic Prep 15 min Chill overnight Cook 3 hr 50 min Serves 6 1 lamb shoulder (2.2-2.5kg), on the bone 500ml buttermilk Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 1 whole head garlic , cloves separated and smashed, but unpeeled 50g chopped rosemary 200ml chicken stock 150g podded peas 150g podded broad beans 80g wild garlic leaves Score the lamb all over in a crisscross fashion. In a bowl, mix the buttermilk with the lemon zest, smashed garlic cloves and chopped rosemary. Smother the lamb with the mixture, then cover loosely and chill in the fridge overnight.…