It’s adored by locals and has won awards in Italy (seriously). So, what makes it so good? Restaurants, at their best, have the potential to become cultural objects. Maybe it’s through a consistent authenticity, or by becoming a landmark, or simply by being a regular gathering place for locals. But a good restaurant run well with real hospitality tends to become part of a place and its collective memory, much like a gallery, or museum, or park. Salmino piccante pizza with with tomato sugo, mozzarella, spicy salami and kalamata olives. Markus Ravik Elementi, if not a cultural object, is close to it. And I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a restaurant achieve this kind of mindshare so fast in this city. It seemed almost immediate after it opened in 2021. Maybe it was a hangover from the pandemic, or maybe it was the location in Paddington, where operators come and go more regularly than they perhaps should – meaning locals tend to bum rush the good ones – but the place was a hit.…