Adrienne Celt Adrienne Celt is the author of three novels, including End of the World House (S&S 2022), Invitation to a Bonfire , and The Daughters , as well as a collection of comics, Apocalypse How? an Existential Bestiary . “Oh No” by Adrienne Celt Longtime readers of this column will be unsurprised to hear that the first quality I look for in a restaurant is not that restaurant’s willingness to accommodate an infant in arms. Such an attribute is not, after all, the marker of elegance, excellence, taste, or invention, all of which my devoted readers will recognize as my areas of primary interest. I believe that food and eating can be artful—indeed, can be art—and it is with this belief in mind that I approach each of my reviews. Families of course deserve helpful criticism of child-friendly establishments, but such readers more fruitfully seek guidance elsewhere. So has it always been.…