Photo by Nikos Economopoulos/ Magnum Photos “A glass of Vermentino, and your children’s menu please.” I am sitting alone at the bar of Cafe Murano in Covent Garden, so you may not be surprised to learn that the waiter returned a puzzled expression. But the service here is almost forcefully obliging. Maybe something in my tone implied it was an emergency – a woman starts running around in search. “Madame!” She brisks past anxiously for the third time. “Your children’s menu is coming.” It arrives – chicken Milanese, arancini, rigatoni and meatballs. That all seems pleasingly advanced for a six-year-old. “Warning! Not suitable for children under 36 months due to small parts – choking hazard,” it says along the bottom. This is confusing to me, as it is A4-sized – the sort of thing a basking shark might choke on, but surely no human infant?…