“I’ll ask the ancestors to look after you tonight.” Gumbaynggirr artist Matthew Flanders completes his introduction and formal welcome to Country. He is standing with his back to deserted Charlesworth Bay, a small cove north of Coffs Harbour in NSW, and behind him the sun has turned the horizon a soft pink. Standing or sitting in a semicircle on the sand, facing Flanders, we’re the only people on the beach. Our coaches may have passed the Big Banana on the short drive from the railway station, but this sheltered spot feels a world away from Coffs’ amusement parks and surf shops. Many travel companies spruik special signature experiences that no one else can access, and this dinner under the stars as part of our Great Southern rail journey from Brisbane to Adelaide is exactly that, but while it is exclusive, it doesn’t feel elite.…