I f you were incredibly late to the party, you’ll have become aware of celebrities making their own brands of alcohol in March, when Margot Robbie’s artisanal gin , Papa Salt, hit the rocks. Specifically, bars were refusing to stock it because oyster shells had been involved in its distilling. It was such a charming tale; Robbie fell in love with London when she lived in Clapham in the 2010s, and wanted to give something back, namely, a gin with the flavours of Australia: wattleseed, wax flower, and oyster shell. “But what barman wants to have to ask every customer that orders a gin and tonic whether they’re allergic to shellfish?” was the question posed by Joanne Gould , food and drink writer and regular tester of alcohol on the Filter, with devastating inarguability. A follow-up question, with more possible answers: what the hell has got into celebrities, that they are all bringing out drinks, even the ones who don’t drink?…