T he old adage that you get what you pay for definitely applies to balsamic vinegar, no matter whether it’s an independent brand or a supermarket’s own-label. The best are made in Modena, Italy, and carry at least IGP (protected geographical indication) status. Though that’s not the strictest certification, it’s still a mark of quality, assuring the product has been made following certain guidelines. None of the vinegars I tested had PDO (protected designation of origin) status, which is a more coveted certification with strict guidelines and a 12-year ageing process, and which explains why it can cost upwards of £1,200 a litre. I tested these vinegars for viscosity and colour, then smell, before finally tasting. The products varied from more acidic, young vinegars with a low sweetness, resulting in harsher, less balanced but still delicious vinegar, through to the most syrupy balsamics with a sugar content as high as 80% (that is, 80g in every 100ml) – a stark contrast to the lowest in the group at 19%.…