W isteria and clematis hang from weathered cottage walls. Tulips and pink apple blossom spill out of several gardens. Thatched animals decorate the rooftops. There’s a Norman church, a medieval castle and an 80-hectare (200-acre) nature reserve. Amberley is the kind of place people assume you can only reach by car, but the village has its own railway station with regular direct trains, along the scenic Arun Valley line , from Bognor, Horsham and London Victoria. This spring, the Black Horse pub reopened in Amberley. The new owners are the gourmet Gladwin brothers , Oliver and Richard, returning to their Sussex roots near Nutbourne Vineyards . Having founded five Local & Wild restaurants in London, the Black Horse is their first country pub and first place with rooms. I’ve walked through Amberley numerous times, but never stopped to explore.…