I have been pouring a lot of wine over this past month, talking a lot about wine, and tasting my fair share, too – or perhaps a little more than my fair share. It’s one of the perks of opening a wine bar on London’s Great Portland Street, a project that’s been brewing (although fermenting may be a more appropriate term) for years. For ages, my wife, Sarit , and I have been pondering what to serve with Middle Eastern food and, as more and more of us bring the flavours and spirit of this region to our homes, maybe that’s a question you’ve been asking yourself as well. The instinct has always been to match dish by dish but, as anyone who has ever sat down to a Levantine spread knows all too well, that doesn’t really work. A Middle Eastern meal is a rush of different flavours; it’s a table of contrasts, not courses. So, instead of asking which wine goes with this dish, the better question is: which wine behaves like this food? You want wines that feel like the food itself.…