The ferry ride to Fogo Island, off the northeast coast of Newfoundland , takes under an hour. The trip may be short, but it contains multitudes. Traveling in August, my wife, two sons, and I saw humpback whales and dolphins breach the surface of the water. Migrating puffins—hundreds, perhaps thousands—filled the sky.  Our summer had been unusually busy, and we were looking for a break. Few places seemed to fit the bill as well as Fogo—an island off an island, and an isolated fishing community of some 2,000 residents. The sense of remoteness was reinforced after we disembarked from the ferry and continued as the road proceeded through a pristine landscape of spruce and pine trees, colorful wildflowers, and sparkling ponds. The earth is craggy, sculpted over millennia by waves and wind. Human habitation seems an afterthought, sprinkled only lightly in the form of fishing boats, piled-up lobster traps, and small houses painted red or blue.…