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‘Flavor is under siege in this country’: how food in America lost its taste

The Guardian·Harry Holmes·3 days ago
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In the last century, industrialized farming has killed off delicious food – but a brigade of chefs, breeders and farmers are fighting to bring it back Bill Tracy is clearly not one to brag, but after a while, it seems he just can’t help himself. “I did come up with something absolutely amazing actually,” he says softly. “Really quite amazing.” Tracy has spent the last 40 years in the fields of Wisconsin as one of the US’s leading sweetcorn breeders, tasting up to 300 ears a day in search of the perfect corn that might one day sizzle on barbecues across the country. Ten years ago, he came close with a variety that visibly captured his heart. “The first time I bit into it I said: ‘Wow,’” Tracy recalls. “Then I handed it to the person next to me and she said: ‘Wow.’ And I counted – the first 100 people who ate it, the first thing they all said was: ‘Wow.’” Tracy is understandably proud of his creation, but those lucky enough to taste it could fit inside a mid-sized restaurant.…

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